Croatia: Worth the Wait

Croatia had been calling to me for years: warm, balmy weather, eye-popping sea views, and an easygoing way of life. Who wouldn’t want to experience it?

But it took nearly 20 years to answer the call. And here’s what I discovered.

Croatia Is Not a Budget Destination

If you think Croatia is a budget destination, think again.

We found Croatia, particularly Dubrovnik, competing with Paris and London for the title of most expensive vacation destination. Even midrange hotels charge premium rates during high season. And we’re not talking about Holiday Inns. We’re talking about small inns with prices that can make the Ritz look affordable.

Our advice? Save your pennies and plan to spend beaucoup bucks on hotels and meals in the larger cities. Then balance your budget by seeking out the smaller towns you simply can’t miss on your Croatian travels. We think you will find more charm, fewer crowds, and a welcome change of pace.

If you do opt for a better-known city, consider renting an apartment and seeking out one of the many family-run takeout eateries offering delicious home-cooked food at better prices than restaurants. We also found small grocery stores where we could stock up on breakfast and lunch essentials.

Taxis are notoriously expensive in Croatia, so choose Uber when you need a ride to nearby destinations. Ferries are the best option for getting from one island or coastal city to the next. We took ferries to both Korčula and Hvar, where we could walk from the port to our apartment or hotel. Split was a little harder to navigate on foot, but we allowed ourselves time to get lost along the way.

We also like to take a city tour when we first arrive. Some of the best companies offer free walking tours on a pay-what-you-wish basis. On Hvar, a father-and-daughter team introduced visitors to the town. In Korčula, our guide claimed to be a distant relative of Marco Polo. At the end of the tour, he regaled us with stories about his famous relative and the scandals surrounding him. These pay-what-you-wish tours are often more entertaining than the prepaid alternatives.

Croatia is for Exploring

Our original plan was to fly into Dubrovnik Airport, collect our luggage, and make the 30-minute drive to Old Town Dubrovnik, where we would spend the night.

Not so fast.

We heard about a small seaside village that was supposedly the perfect place to spend our first few nights. So instead of heading straight to Old Town, we made the short 10-minute drive to Cavtat, a waterfront gem that quickly captured our hearts.

While Cavtat may not have the star power of Split or Šibenik, it has plenty of charm. We made it our base for two nights, giving ourselves time to recover from jet lag. In hindsight, we should have stayed six nights.

 

Roughly 12 miles from Dubrovnik, Cavtat moves at a slower pace. Its streets are less crowded, and its restaurants don’t attract the throngs of families you’ll find in some of Croatia’s better-known destinations.

Ferries and boat services connect Cavtat with other coastal destinations, including Dubrovnik. Private boat excursions also offer opportunities to explore the surrounding islands such as the Elaphitis and Lokrum.

Cavtat isn’t a new city. Its history stretches back to the sixth century BC, when Greek settlers established a settlement in the area. Later, under Roman rule, the town became known as Epidaurum. Following its decline, some of Cavtat’s inhabitants moved north and helped lay the foundations for what would become Dubrovnik. Cavtat’s  Latin name, Civitas Vetus, meaning “Old City,” gradually evolved into its modern name.

Today, you can explore Cavtat’s  landmarks as easily as its waterfront.

If you start on the promenade, for instance, and cross over from the water polo court, you’ll see St. Nicholas Church, a charming place that dates back to the 15th century . It has housed an art gallery since 1952. Farther along, you’ll find a narrow lane leads to the former home of Vlaho Bukovac, one of Croatia’s best-known painters. Now a museum, the house offers a glimpse into the artist’s life and work.

Another worthwhile stop is the Račić Family Mausoleum, about 10 minutes from the waterfront. Designed by renowned Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović, the striking white-stone mausoleum is the final resting place of members of the Račić family.

Cavtat offers a range of accommodations too. Popular options include Hotel Supetar, Hotel Seventh and Hotel Cavtat.

We stayed at Hotel Croatia, an all-time favorite among Cavtat veterans. Our room was on an upper-floor with a balcony and a panoramic view of the water. We quickly fell into a lovely routine of exploring the promenade first thing in the morning before the hotel’s buffet breakfast, then returning for an early-evening stroll.

So much to enjoy

Cavtat was an unexpected highlight of our trip. Sometimes the best travel discoveries happen when we allow ourselves the freedom to explore.

Croatia Has an Island for Everyone

Croatia has more than 1,000 islands, although fewer than 50 are inhabited. We visited two and loved every moment.

Korčula

First up was Korčula, an easy-to-navigate island with a majestic medieval walled town as its main attraction. During our four-day stay, we walked through the fortress entrance at least 10 times, always finding another alleyway or passage to explore. The island is often called “Little Dubrovnik” and features an ingenious herringbone layout designed to optimize sea breezes and minimize the impact of summer heat.

Marco Polo’s house is tucked down one of the side streets. The original structure has been gutted and rebuilt, but you can still climb the tower for amazing views of the harbor. Polo reportedly lived in the house briefly before heading to Italy. Although the original rooms are gone, exhibits throughout the building offer insight into his life. Don’t miss the museum shop which offers and amazing selection of replica tools from his era.

We signed up for a GuruWalks tour during our stay. GuruWalks offers guided walks on a pay-by-donation basis. Our guide claimed to be Marco Polo’s nephew by many generations and had plenty of juicy stories about the famous resident’s island adventures.

While browsing the local shops, we spotted a framed newspaper clipping with a photo of Novak Djokovic. The legendary tennis star vacations on Korčula with his family and is rumored to play tennis in the streets with local children. Djokovic also has favorite shops where he buys gifts for his wife. One shop has in its window a photo of Djokovic with the owner.

A nice sidetrip while visiting the island is Lumbarda, a picturesque village on the eastern tip of the island. The town is reached by local bus, and is famous for producing Grk, a lovely white wine made from a local grape. Zure and Popic are two notable Lumbarda wineries producing the wine.

Beaches in Lumbarda are also a big draw. Unlike most Croatian beaches which are composed of pebbles and rocks, these are made of sand.

Hvar

I fell in love with Hvar the moment I stepped off the boat. It oozes so much charm that I couldn’t understand why it has a rabble-rouser reputation. Perhaps it’s Hvar Town’s (the main city) image as a party destination. Hvar Town is filled with upscale beach clubs, expensive hotels, and stylish waterfront bars, which give off an air of glamour. Not to mention the town’s steady parade of celebrities arriving by yacht.

Prince Harry was famously reported to have fallen into a swimming pool at Carpe Diem, a luxe beach club that is a major part of the island’s lore.

Must-dos

One of the favorite activities on Hvar is walking the waterfront promenade. Stretching out past shaded grassy areas, the path leads to hillside benches where you can linger and savor the view of the boats. The beaches are rocky, but that doesn’t stop visitors from dropping their towels and taking an Adriatic dip.

Another worthwhile outing is hiking to Hvar Fortica, an historic fortress perched on a hill above town. The walk takes about 30 minutes and follows a stone pathway past small cafés to a gravel trail winding up to the fortress.

Built over several centuries, the massive structure with its monumental walls pays tribute to an early duty of protecting the tiny island. You can appreciate the structure by walking around its walls. but the fortress is also open inside for a fee.

If it isn’t too windy, linger on one of the benches and enjoy the view of the Pakleni Islands. On your way down the trail, stop at one of the stands selling cold drinks. It’s a welcome opportunity to find some shade and escape the intense summer sun.

Stari Grad

Another must-see in Hvar is Stari Grad, which literally means “old town.” Dating back several thousand years, it is one of the oldest settlements in this part of Europe. Its historic center has a lovely town square, and the marina attracts fishing boats and yachts, whose owners dock for the day to enjoy breakfast and dinner ashore.

Stari Grad is a popular base for visitors who prefer a quieter evening than Hvar Town’s St. Stephen’s Square.

Diversions off the island

From Hvar, consider popping over to Brač for hiking, kayaking, and some of the best olive oil in the Adriatic. Dinner on Brač is almost sure to include fresh-off-the-boat seafood (think octopus), local wine, and all followed with a post-dinner stroll along Zlatni Rat beach.

The island of Mljet is a paradise for nature lovers. It’s very popular during summer so beware of ferries selling out. Once on Mljet, rent a bike to explore the island or head to one of the beautiful parks to commune with nature.

Our last hurrah

From Hvar we went to Split for the night and enjoyed a twilight tour of Diocletian’s Palace. Next visit we will book a room in the palace itself and savor the stillness after the tourists’ go home. The morning farmer’s market is a must visit for its selection of farm-fresh produce, olive oils and soap.

We also made a stop at Plitvich Lakes National Park. We had mixed feelings about changing our schedule to visit the park but big surprise: it was a highlight of our trip. While there, I whined about getting up at 6am to make the first entry (the rest of the day was sold out) but what a blessing in disguise. We had the park to ourselves and lingered at waterfalls and ponds, catching the early morning sun over the water. It was well worth crawling out of bed in the dark to see this feat of nature in the splendor of first light.

-Rose-