Small Italian Cities Worth a Detour
Wander through these enchanting Italian towns and you’ll be captivated by their rich history, medieval architecture and stunning settings, all preserved through the ages.
Spello, Umbria
After a week traveling through the charming yet crowded backroads of Tuscany, the tranquil villages of Umbria offer a refreshing change. Once a religious hub and now home to ancient ruins, Umbria is also an esteemed wine region famous for Orvieto, a dry white wine enjoyed for generations.
What to Know
We base ourselves in Spello, a tiny medieval town in the province of Perugia, just six miles from Assisi. Regarded as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy, Spello sits atop Roman ruins, with remnants of an ancient amphitheater and six gates from the Augustan era, including the iconic Porta Consolare, Porta di Venere, and the Arch of Augustus, which leads to an old Roman road.
Our destination is Hotel Palazzo Bocci, a 17th-century palace converted into an enchanting hotel near the main square. Hotels fill quickly in high season, so we are fortunate to book the last available room—a spacious suite with a king-sized bedroom, a separate living room, and a bathroom with a deep tub that came straight out of a Medici mansion. Though slightly worn, the palace offered a serene haven where we could relax and enjoy the faded splendor of this magnificent building. A favorite destination is the Hall of Frescoes, a gilded showcase of beautiful old murals. We are also just a short walk from other ancient buildings and village shops, including an olive store with a tasting room and a delightful soap shop infused with the scent of lavender.
Churches once flourished in Spello, and the best-preserved among them is Santa Maria Maggiore. Its 16th-century basilica, dating to 1159, is built over an ancient temple dedicated to Juno and Vesta. The church features a Romanesque portal and a 13th-century bell tower, with frescoes by Perugino (1512) adorning the pilasters next to the apse. Sant’Andrea, established around 1025, also boasts an altarpiece by Pinturicchio.
But Spello offers more than just ruins. We spent an afternoon climbing the steep, cobbled walkways, passing arched entries with stunning views of the Umbrian plains. Spello is also known for its flowers. In June, the town hosts Infiorata, a festival where thousands of flowers are transformed into stunning floral artwork, including a 1500-meter-long carpet of blooms. The village is also renowned for its flower-filled alleys and pathways, and a yearly competition is held for the most beautiful display.
Polignano a Mare, Puglia
This delightful walled town clings to a cliff overlooking the Adriatic Sea. Enter through Porta Vecchia, also known as Arco Marchesale, and you will feel like you are stepping back in time. Here you can wander down cobbled streets, climb steep staircases leading to intricately carved wooden doors, and admire the sun-bleached architecture influenced by Spanish and Norman designs. In the town square is a 16th-century abbey, a testament to the area’s rich and storied past.
What to Know
Though compact, Polignano a Mare’s labyrinth of narrow streets and alleys creates the illusion of endless exploration. On our first day, we establishe landmarks: a left turn at the family bakery took us to our hotel, while a right at the gift shop ended at our favorite café.
Our base is Antico Mondo, a beloved bed and breakfast set in a medieval building, with small studios scattered along one of the town’s historic walkways. These picturesque studios, surrounded by flowerboxes and wrought-iron balconies, offer a perfect spot to gather on balmy evenings. Our studio has thick stone walls and high ceilings, and is thoughtfully remodeled to include a kitchenette with a stovetop, sink, and all the utensils we need to prepare a simple meal.
Although it is early September, a storm rolls in around evening, bringing strong winds and rain. We stay inside until the weather clears, and by 8 PM, the rain has stopped, revealing a vibrant Saturday night scene as strollers fill the squares. One of the town’s highlights is that many streets end at scenic overlooks, where locals gather to watch waves crash against the cliffs below. After dark, you might spot the glow of candles at Grotta Palazzese, a famous restaurant set in a cave by the water’s edge, often considered the most photographed destination in Puglia. The flickering lights create a fairytale-like setting.
For people-watching, Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, the town’s historic square, is the place to be. As the sun sets, restaurants and cafés pull out tables and chairs to create an ideal spot to savor delicious food and enjoy the lively ambiance of one of Italy’s most enchanting small towns.
Bergamo, Lombardy
Bergamo is truly a tale of two towns: Bergamo Bassa (the lower town) and Bergamo Alta (the old town). The modern lower town contrasts with the historic upper town, which can be reached by car or funicular and was first populated as early as 1200 BC. Located at the base of the Bergamo Alps in the Lombardy region, the town sits about 40 km from Milan and 30 km from Lake Como.
What to Know
We arrive from Lake Garda and drive the windy road straight to the old town. It is pedestrian only so we park on the outskirts. But it is an easy walk to our hotel, Piazza Vecchia, which is just footsteps from Piazza Vecchia, the city’s 12th-century square. The hotel is tucked in an ancient building and opens to a narrow staircase leading to the reception. The interior has been carefully remodeled, and our room is clean, airy room with a double bed and an armoire. A large window opens to a courtyard. The hotel’s location couldn’t be more perfect—walk out the door and you’re right on the main street.
In Città Alta, shopkeepers follow the tradition of closing for lunch and reopening around 4 pm, so it’s best to explore the area mid-morning or late afternoon. However, there’s still plenty to see at midday, starting with the two main squares.
Piazza Vecchia, with its cobblestone square, is home to the impressive Contarini Fountain, a beautiful baptistry, and a Romanesque basilica that was begun in 1137. For a stunning view of the surrounding area, climb to the top of the Campanone (the Civic Tower). Not far away is Piazza del Duomo, which has a 12th-century palace—one of the oldest in Italy—and near the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, a prime example of Romanesque architecture.
As night falls, many of the old buildings light up. Don’t miss this. Find a table at one of the cafes on the square and enjoy a coffee or gelato while soaking in the illuminated monuments and medieval walls.
For food, try one of the small family-run markets along the main street, offering delicious takeaway dishes. We found display cases of homemade lasagna, ravioli, polenta e osei, a local specialty, salads, and rows of exquisite Italian cheeses and desserts, including Donizetti cake, named after the famous opera composer who was born in Bergamo. You’ll also find restaurants on the square and along the main street serving hearty home-cooked meals. Here you can linger into the night, savoring the medieval setting that is well worth the drive.
-Rose-