The Magic of Mustique
Nestled in a cluster of islands called the Grenadines in the West Indies not far from St. Vincent is a 1400-acre island unlike most others in the world. This little known parcel of land is called Mustique and has become the Caribbean’s best-kept secret for those seeking a private island escape.
Certainly there are other destinations that offer more amenities – nightlife, spas, sports — but that’s not why people come here. Mustique’s appeal isn’t its chic lifestyle, it’s the laid back island calm.
The Beginning
Originally discovered by Spanish sailors in the 15th century, Mustique was later developed by European settlers who built huge sugar plantations. The plantations were prosperous until the 19th century. They fell into ruin and sugar beets replaced sugar cane though soon overgrown with scrub.
In the late 1950s, a Scottish baron named Colin Tennant purchased the three-mile site to develop as an upscale resort. His idea was for Mustique to be divided into plots and sold to shareholders who would invest to retain exclusivity. The land was snatched up by an eclectic group of socialites, rock stars, designers and artists. Tennant saved one plot as a wedding gift for his good friend Princess Margaret, sister of Queen Elizabeth II. Margaret built a cliff-top villa called Les Jolies Eaux (“Beautiful Waters”), designed by her uncle-in-law, Oliver Messel, a leading British theatre set designer known for his flamboyant designs, many of which can be found in homes on the island.
Messel created a 5-bedroom house in the neo-Georgian style for the Princess and she spent many happy years there entertaining family and friends. Les Jolies Eaux stayed in the royal family until 1999 when an American couple bought the estate and added a large veranda, master pavilion and cabana. They kept the manor-house with the overstuffed chintz sofas and chairs. This is where my husband and I are about to spend several happy evenings on a May escape to the island.
Our Arrival
We arrive early afternoon on an eight-seater prop plane. The airport is our own version of Fantasy Island’s, but instead of Tattoo greeting us, our butler (Les Jolies Eaux has a sizeable house staff), is waiting to pack us and our luggage into the house “mule” (Kawasaki golf cart), the main transportation. Monsoon-level rain leaves big puddles on Mustique’s streets and this four-legged creature traverses them with ease.
It is a short ride from the airport to the villa where other staff is lined up to greet us: A new chef recently took over from Judy, the original chef, who had been with the villa since it was built more than 50 years ago. Judy served Princess Margaret and then her son, David Linley, before the current owners took over. A new generation of staff now runs the home.
The Princess’ Escape
We get a quick tour of the home, which features a long spacious living room opening to a terrace and magnificent view of the water. On either side of the room is a dining area and parlor for reading or enjoying a leisure game of chess. Five bedrooms are tucked around the villa with names like Detective, Princess, Studio and Treetop. Each offers its own distinct charm.
We choose the poolside master pavilion, an elegant wood-beamed cottage with a balcony and dipping pool. We start each day sipping coffee while looking out to the water and listening to waves crash against the shore.
Mustique is close to the equator so sunset and sunrise occur about the same time each day. There are no street lights so we time excursions to be back at the villa before dark. With only 100 or so houses on Mustique, and no visible electrical or telephone lines, there are few landmarks to guide us and getting lost is not an inviting option.
The one exception to our home-by-dark rule is a weekly cocktail reception at the historic Cotton House, an old plantation transformed into a luxury hotel. Here locals and guests gather every Tuesday night in the Great Room to imbibe and share tales about island life.
Famous Residents
Mustique, we learn, is a bit like Hollywood: You never know who you’ll see. Had we been there a month earlier, we could have mingled with Tommy Hilfiger, Mick Jagger and even Shania Twain. The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge spent their “babymoon” at the family villa, and Bill Gates once parked his yacht offshore when he visited a financier friend.
In general, though, days are laidback and anonymous and often used to explore the beaches and inlets. One favorite excursion is packing a champagne and caviar picnic to enjoy at Macaroni beach, a secluded stretch of pristine white sand in a palm-shrouded setting.
On other days we frequent the village bakery for its simple island specialties as well as western favorites like sourdough baguettes.
Where to go
Those who don’t want to stay in a villa can opt for Cotton House, a lovely hotel offering a spa, golf course and two restaurants. The Veranda serves Caribbean-fused dining and the waterfront Beach Café, is beach food with tables looking out to Endeavour Bay. Don’t miss callaloo soup, made from a spinach-like vegetable that tastes much better than it looks.
No trip to Mustique is complete without popping into Basil’s Bar, the only true nightspot on the island. Started and named for Basil Charles, the unofficial mayor of Mustique, the bar attracts locals on Wednesdays, for the legendary “Jump Up,” a lively evening of barbecue, music and dancing on the deck until the wee hours.
Charles worked as a bartender and assistant manager of the Cotton House, before opening the beachfront bar. He was awarded an Order of the British Empire in 2005.
Equestrians will want to stop by the island stables, while tennis buffs can check out the club courts for socials and tournaments when high season starts.
Vacations on Mustique don’t come cheap. Villas like Les Jolies Eaux rent for upwards of $30,000 per week
No matter what you select, Mustique is paradise found and not easily left.
For more information on Mustique, contact Mustique-island.com.
-Rose
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